MARTINIS...GIN OR VODKA?

As you might know or will soon discover, I have a passion for martinis. Some days I'd like a gin martini, and others I'd like it vodka.

Still others I might like a flavored drink, but..well, that's not really a martini. But more about that later.

Purists, of course, will note that true martinis are a gin drink. The Northern California saloon in in which the martini was invented - whichever one it was - doubtless had three things for sale: whiskey, gin and beer. And maybe not a lot of that latter. Shoes life was important and until the advent of refrigeration, serving alcohol was restricted to the higher grade stuff. Gin was, of course, the choice of several navies around the world, particularly the British fleet. (More about that later.)

As I've mentioned before, the origin of the martini is under continual debate, with no resolution likely in our lifetimes. But gin, not vodka, was the original constituent.

Vodka arrived on the scene much later, and really didn't come into its own as a martini ingredient until the mid-fifties. Then, with the advent of James Bond, vodka began its ascendence to the point where, today, it is the gin martini which is the exceptional ingredient, not the rule.

OXO Bistro, London

But for the consumer - by this I mean the person consuming the drink, not the overall retail purchaser -  there's a significant difference in the flavor between the two liquors, so the choice of which one to order is very much in the drinker's hands. Or mouth, as the case may be.

Gin is, perhaps obviously, a much more flavorful liquor. Some actually think that vodka is essentially tasteless, which it isn't. Vodka is a very subtle flavoring, and depends far more heavily upon texture and alcoholic "burn" for its impact on the palate. It also mixes much more readily, which has had the effect of making vodka the choice liquor for the wide array of "-tini" drinks available both in bars as well as flavored alcohol drinks in the supermarket liquor section.

Gin is distilled from juniper berries. It has an herbaceousness which is essential to its taste. In this

I've found that the gin drinker places a much higher priority on individual brands than do vodka drinkers, and for good reason. Gin, being an herbaceous, botanical drink, is heavily impacted by what our friends in the wine industry might describe as "terroir". Ground. Surroundings. "Earth". But in the case of gin it's less about the dirt than the contents of any surrounding brush. A British brand, The Herbalist, is, for example, specific that much of their botanical flavor comes from the fact their juniper comes from a boggy area, and therefore contains a more earthy, grounded flavor. (It's quite good. My attempts to describe it are clumsy, at best.) Other gins may be more flowery or grassy, depending upon origin.

Nick's, Washington, DC

In this writer's opinion the gin martini is better served with a lemon twist precisely because of the floral nature. It also makes for a pleasant mixture with a slightly higher content of vermouth than does vodka. A common misperception is that a martini is mixed the same way whether you're using gin or vodka. I've found that varying the ratio of vermouth and the garnish chosen often make for a better drink. In my case I prefer a slightly wetter gin martini - more vermouth - with a lemon twist.



In my opinion, a gin martini requires a slightly higher percentage of maybe 5 to 1 or even 4 to 1 for the people who like their drinks "wet".

A vodka martini, on the other hand, benefits from a lighter touch with the vermouth, lest the vermouth overpower and become the solitary flavor in your drink. Some suggest 10 parts vodka to 1 part vermouth is correct.

(And there are people who prefer it differently, and more power to them. Every person will have their own guidelines, so the person ordering their drink ought to feel empowered to order it their own way. Friends of mine often grin when I give a waiter my specific instructions, but if I'm paying $15 or more I'm certainly going to want it my way, not a bartender's standardized presentation.)

Javier's, Newport Beach

(True martini stalwarts insist that the best mixture is 10 parts of either gin or vodka, with a salute to

Vodka, most frequently a potato-distilled liquor, tends to be a far more subtle flavor, which is why most people assume it has none. Its impact is in texture and burn, as noted above. Texture meaning whether it feels crisp or oily in the mouth. For example Tito's is a crisper vodka, while Grey Goose has an oilier texture. Add to that the level of alcoholic burn - the slight searing on the tongue and the back of the throat - and you have a more textural experience than the flavor-filled gin martini.

(True martini stalwarts insist that the best ratio is ten parts of either gin or vodka, with a gentle toast to the unopened vermouth bottle across the bar. With all due credit to Sir Winston Churchill for that particular observation.)

The American Bistro, Palm Springs

(There are, naturally, exceptions to this observation. Plymouth Gin, the choice of the British Navy for generations is perhaps one of the most famous brands. They produce two strengths: Original (41% alcohol) and Naval Strength (57%). Naval Strength is therefore a much more powerful a drink than standard gin, and this was to increase the storage and durability of the drink for long ocean voyages. The throat burn is rather astounding and intense.)


And there are other considerations.

Olives, which are an oily and salty ingredient, do far better complimenting a vodka martini than a gin in my opinion. My typical orders might be something like "vodka martini, dry, olives" or "gin martini, gentle on the vermouth, lemon twist". That lays into my palate, and gives me the drink I want to pay for.

But, as noted, your mileage may vary.